In another life I would dream to be a fashion director, just like Stephen Ayres.
Imagine all that trend deciphering, a work place that revolves around Paris, New York and London fashion weeks and buying the most fabulous pieces for wonderful women; welcome to Stephen Ayres world, the fashion director for Avenue 32.
Sometimes I feel we take fashion for granted, the behind-the-scenes part of fashion. We forget how much creativity, effort and expertise goes into curating a myriad of collections. We click open a site or we browse the stores and we reflect on the designers but how often do we ask about the people “buying” for us. They are the ones really making the decisions; their choices lead ours.
That’s why I wanted to talk with Stephen and to ask those questions that pique my curiosity.
Who is the Avenue 32 woman?
The Avenue 32 woman is confident and she is ahead of the crowd. She trusts herself, her own style and is not trend lead. She is evolved when it comes to her fashion choices and she looks for exclusives, for unique pieces. As the Avenue 32 website has changed and evolved so have our clients. We are growing up together and we are showing more written content in the magazine section now so the experience is more than simply buying.
What do you want women to feel when they open the Avenue 32 website?
We want women to feel a sense of discovery.
Avenue 32 never wants to be a small version of the bigger online websites; we are unique and feel that is our point of difference and our great strength. We want women to open the site and see something new, to experience a different feeling and to “discover” Avenue 32 as a destination.
How do you know what we are going to want to wear each season? Is it instinct?
Buying is about instinct and analysis.
We analyse our Avenue 32 data and understand what silhouettes are most popular. We determine the shapes, the sleeves, the necklines and the hem lengths that are most popular. I buy what our woman wants and am guided by her buying history. We work out the best price points and allocate budgets accordingly.
Once I am at fashion week and in buying mode my instinct kicks in. As we watch similar pieces and a definite feel will keep re-appearing. This coming season will be about velvet; it was impossible to ignore. We saw velvet everything, in shoes, in tailoring, in dresses and blouses. When there is one standout trend, one distinctive feeling we take that lead.
Buying is about “breaking it down”.
We decide what is the number one piece and work forwards from there. If the runway shows something inspiring we will have an unexpected flutter because we want to find the unexpected for the Avenue 32 woman.
There is pressure when travelling and buying to keep the instinct working.
There are different cities, different time zones and many shows to see. It is important to be calm and Roberta Benteler and I work beautifully together. We have the same vision for Avenue 32 and we bounce of each other. We always make time for fun, to take a break; there is so much product it is important to take a step back regularly and not become overly consumed.
The way I buy is to look at everything, to digest it all and take time to review what I have seen and what I think is suitable for our women. Then I buy always remembering to buy, “what we love”. That is where the instinct comes into play, like Roberta buying is also about what I love. The fun is in the curation and edit.
Fashion week is tough, the schedule, the pressure and making sure we find what our Avenue 32 woman will be excited by, but it is the best time and the energy is fantastic.
Do you stick to the allocated budget?
No! The budget is elastic and is broken down brand by brand.
If we see something unexpected and amazing we will allocate more budget and recognize the opportunity. We need to stay flexible and work with our instincts even if it means scaling back in other areas.
Who are your female role models?
Tilda Swinton; she is incredibly chic and makes her androgynous look very feminine.
Julianne Moore is stunning, Cate Blanchett very beautiful and Julia Roberts, very authentic.
They are not typical but they are strong women and are ageing gracefully, however they do it. They are real women, women to admire and the kind of woman the Avenue 32 client identifies with.
The one piece all women should own?
Only one?
A distinctive blazer because it is a piece to be worn in so many ways. It is so versatile and can be worn with jeans, over a dress and can be dressed up or dressed down for so many occasions.
The one piece a woman should never wear?
A woman should be comfortable in what she wears and wear the outfit with confidence. A trend, if it doesn’t suit is not worth wearing; she will never feel fabulous or comfortable however much the magazines favour it.
How can women of all ages adapt trends to suit them?
Fashion moves quickly but in a sense stays the same.
The staples are always in fashion and should be the prime focus of a working wardrobe. Invest well in the classics; in good fitting pants, a great flat boot, a quality overcoat and cashmere. Use end of season sales to help the budget and to invest wisely. Spend less on trend pieces and layer them in for each new season. Don’t spend a lot of money on pieces that are instantly recognisable; be flamboyant but with pieces to last for many years.
You are a man buying for women, what are you thinking when you are making choices for us?
I don’t get attached to collections emotionally.
I suppose I come from a different place and try and envisage the feminine point of view; what a woman wants when she gets dressed. I believe women, when they dress, want to feel attractive, beautiful and a little sexy. That’s what I am thinking and wanting to find for her when I buy.
If we could have a wish list from Avenue 32?
A dress from Roksanda, the crepe Margo dress is wonderful.
She cuts beautifully and understands the female silhouette.
Racil for tailoring; his tailoring is exceptional and the colour combinations exciting.
And a bag, a fabulous bag can make all the difference.
On The Avenue: Stephen Ayres
roksanda black crepe margo dress || racil tailored jacket || navy quilted bag
images, avenue 32
